'Good Trouble' Makeup Artists Camille Henderson and Ingrid Hartowicz Talk Beauty Secrets and More!
Good Trouble has been one of Freeforms' most loved shows for the past 4 years popularised for its diversity, compelling storylines and makeup looks that act as a reflection of the characters themselves. We had the opportunity to chat with Camille Henderson and Ingrid Hartowicz-Fuentes who have both been working with the actors since The Fosters to learn more about the creative process, their favourite looks and makeup tips.
Working In The Industry
How did you first get into beauty and what made you choose it as a career path?
Camille: My mom inspired me. She had a great eye and sense of style and I have always loved beauty/makeup and fashion. For as Iong as I remember, I would spend my last dollar on L'Officiel the french magazine. I knew I wanted to do something creative as my career, I went to Cosmetology school and graduated when I was 19. I had hoped they would teach more makeup in their curriculum than they did! I worked in salons and did platform work teaching cornrowing for a few years as a hairstylist but I never forgot my love for makeup. I found a makeup class at USC with William Tuttle, one of the founding makeup artists in our industry. I was eager to learn more, I was already working with photographers building my portfolio and started getting jobs for commercials, Coca Cola, Budweiser, Skittles, A&W Root Beer, Doritos, etc. print/fashion Dillards, Macy’s, Spiegel, Bon Marche’, I Magnin etc. My first film was Raising Arizona where I was the key makeup and hair. I soon met 2 actors, Linda Fiorentino and Michael Madsen, who began requesting me and that is what brought me to Hollywood, in the early 90s. Oh, and I did all that as a single mother of 3 sons!!
Ingrid Hartowicz-Fuentes: It was from when I was in school in Santiago de Chile when I actively participated in the area of art, specifically in Theatre and Dance as I assisted my colleagues with costumes, hair and makeup. I decides to study Cosmetology and beauty makeup when I received a call from a producer friend who recommended for me to study Makeup for Film & FX. This was when a Chilean makeup artist who was returning from exile in France Paris opened the first Makeup School for Film & FX in Chile. So I did and after working in Chilean and Latin American productions, love brought me to Los Angeles for the last 22 years and developed my career here in Motion Picture Industry.
What has been the highlight of your career so far?
"The highlight is every day!" says Ingrid who is fortunate to be "able to do what I love and be a part of this magical film and television industry, first in Chile and for the last 19 years in Hollywood". A particular career highlight she mentioned was working in the makeup team for a movie called The 33 as "having had the opportunity to return to work in Chile after 16 years ….. it was priceless."
What do you feel is the hardest part of your job?
It was a common answer between both artists that the early call times which can "sometimes even be at 4:30 am" says Ingrid can be the hardest part. Camille Henderson delved deeper into the reality of her role as a Department Head which requires her to "wear many hats as you have to think ahead, troubleshoot, research, delegate, be an artist, referee, peacemaker, therapist and accountant." "I wouldn’t call it hard but it’s a very busy focused job with many nuances and details! says Henderson, "After all, we set the tone for the day for our actors!"
Designing The Makeup Looks
What do you feel is the most important thing when expressing a character through their makeup looks?
Considering the powerful storylines the show tackles such as body positivity, racism and sexism in the workforce, Ingrid Hartowicz-Fuentes shares that the makeup looks should "reflect the emotions and feelings of the character and be true to the story script."
Can you walk us through the process of designing the looks for both Maia and Cierra?
As a Department Head, Camille Henderson "never wanted our show to look like a makeup artist had done their makeup!". Instead, she aimed for the makeup to "look beautiful but have a bit of edge and rawness to it". "Maia has a great eye for style and knows what she likes it was fun creating with her!" says Henderson. Ingrid Hartowicz-Fuentes who focuses on Mariana for the show stated how it was important to look at the character's past in building her looks. She describes the makeup looks on The Fosters as "very natural, fresh and realistic" but wanted to create a difference in Good Trouble as "we see Mariana happy and full of dreams as she builds up her new life in Los Angeles".
How much of the makeup looks are a collaboration with the showrunners and actresses?
Working with the girls and the production team for over 8 years, Camille Henderson says "I’ve come to know what they like so it comes pretty easy although sometimes they give me specific notes". Hartowicz-Fuentes describes the process as a "team creation where all the arts, photography, direction, acting, makeup, hair and wardrobe come together and it is possible to project a character on screen."
We are loving the makeup looks for the season 4 promos! How does the process of creating looks for promotional photos compare to creating them for scenes from the show?
In describing this process both artists enjoyed the freedom of creating a different look but "we want to portray the way they look on the show so that when you watch the show you aren't like "hey they look so different" says Henderson. In describing this freedom, Ingrid shared how she loves "playing more with the exaggeration of the contours of the face using the technique of light & shadow.". The process is described as "unlike a regular day of filming where I adapt to the specific story and moment of the scene." by Hartowicz-Fuentes. Henderson shared how shows can sometimes hire agency makeup artists for promotion but "the hair department head Elizabeth Cho and I felt that we should definitely do the photography promos for Good Trouble because it has such a specific look!"
Callie and Mariana's Beauty Secrets
For Callie, what has been your favourite look so far?
Camille Henderson who does Maia Mitchell's makeup for the character Callie says "I love the Tango Dance scene in a stunning custom form-fitting red dress by our genius costume designer Deena Appel." Camille says "Honestly it's all about the whole image makeup, hair and wardrobe working together! To create the best makeup look she "asked for a swatch of the dress and matched her lipstick perfectly!"
The Tango Scene
For Mariana, what has been your favourite look so far?
Ingrid Hartowicz-Fuentes does Cierra Ramirez's makeup for the character of Mariana and said that two favourite looks come to mind "the spy look and her first day of work as an engineer at Speckulate". Her reason for loving this look is "it exactly reflects the moment where Mariana wanted to impress the group of Engineers who discriminated against the women who work in that field." The look was designed to reflect how "Mariana wanted to impress the group of Engineers who discriminated against the women who work in that field."
What are the staple products you use on Maia to create Callie’s makeup looks?
"She loves Fenty Glow 02 lip gloss and Glossier mascara," says Henderson while also listing Jane Iredale pressed powders for a "natural glow to the high points of the face", the Rodial undereye concealer in Peach Lowlighter to "make the eyes pop", Chanel blushes, Joues Contraste in the shades In Love and Rose Petal. She finishes off each look with "a spritz of rose water".
Working On Set
Can you describe what a typical day on set looks like?
"A typical day starts at 5 am" says Hartowicz-Fuentes with Henderson describing her daily responsibilities of "setting up the trailer for the day, disinfecting the countertops and stations, setting out the actors' makeup bags and checking makeup continuity for the day per the call sheet.". The daily responsibilities will vary based on how much time is available and they need to "make sure their set bags have everything needed for touchups because sometimes we are not close to the trailer" says Henderson. To keep the makeup looking fresh for close-ups "having the right combination of makeup is essential in keeping the look beautiful throughout a 12 hr day". As Camille Henderson is the department head she "has more duties within concept meetings and working with budgets etc." says Hartowicz-Fuentes.
Transitioning From The Fosters to Good Trouble
You’ve both been working with this cast and crew for 8 years now! How has your process evolved over this time to accommodate the latest beauty trends and products?
Both artists take different approaches to their evolving beauty process as Ingrid Hartowicz-Fuentes is "constantly researching, studying and using new products and looks to add to my beauty kit". Camille Henderson shared that “personally I don’t follow trends I follow what I like”, I still use products and techniques that were from the beginning of my career!" These products include the Brenda Christian eye pencil "it’s a pretty universal eyebrow pencil", William Tuttle Coco Bare"for that perfect cool taupe colour" and Gerda Spillmann foundation. She shared that "once I’ve found something that works it’s usually hard to beat". Camille Henderson also told us about her love for clean beauty like Rituel de Fille shimmer creams, Ilia Beauty and "one thing I can’t live with out is the By Terry Baume de Rose Lip Balm it gives a beautiful lustre by it self or over lipstick!" Hartowicz-Fuentes emphasised the importance of "adapting the trends to my actors according to their own style and personal taste" as well as collaboration with other artists to "share knowledge and techniques"
What was the process of transitioning the character's makeup looks from The Fosters to Good Trouble?
Camille Henderson mentioned how finding out about the spinoff was surreal and it "didn’t hit me until I walked into the stages where the new sets were for Good Trouble, they were literal masterpieces! She describe the sets and shared that"It might sound odd that a set design would inspire a makeup look but in my mind, I knew exactly what I wanted the show to look like! Rachel Kamerman is our brilliant production designer." Camille described the difference between the locations of both shows by telling us "I felt their coming of age version should be noticeable on-screen and evolve as their characters do! That was important to me!"
Beauty Inspiration
Where do you get your beauty inspiration from? Is there anyone in the industry you look up to?
"I see beauty in everything around me" Henderson says, "I also love faces, yes I think wrinkles are beautiful and think everyone has something beautiful to enhance!" She mentioned the inspiration taken from her peers as "we have so many talented artists in our union “local 706” like Julie Hewitt, Vivan Baker, Bill Corso the list could go on and on!". Inspiration is also taken from the storylines and the character as Hartowicz-Fuentes says "when I meet the chosen actor I immediately create the look in my mind and then take it to the actor’s face and characterize it."
Final Words Of Advice
Any advice for someone wanting to pursue a career in makeup?
Camille believes in not being afraid to "reach out to artists you like I’ve had many contact me and I love helping them! Sometimes you can shadow the artist at work!". For Ingrid, it is important to "Always be very professional by keeping the protocol of set etiquette with respect and privacy"
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